If you don't like the leather repair gel, you can return it for a full refund any time. Money back of 30 days. Repairs tears, holes, burns, gashes and gouges in vinyl and leather. The complete professional kit with electric heat iron does not migrate during cure. The chart matches popular colors and grains. There is a professional electric heat tool, 7 color compounds, clear vinyl adhesive and filler, grain pattern paper, metal spatula, and plastic dashboard hardening powder. Suggested applications include: leather and vinyl upholstery, dashboard, vinyl tops, marine upholstery, luggage. Suggested applications include: leather and vinyl upholstery, dashboard, vinyl tops, marine upholstery, luggage.
👤I used this product to repair a small tear in the back of a leather seat. The results were not perfect but they were very good and the repair is strong. The spatula in the kit was useless. You need a small stiff brush or small tip tool to apply the fill material accurately. The instructions are easy to follow. If you use tape to apply the grain backing paper, it can cause damage to the paper and make it hard to reuse it. If you want to tape the grain paper, use a painters tape. The kit produced better results than I expected, but is not a perfect repair.
👤The driver's armrest in my Jeep Grand Cherokee had cracks where the driver's elbow would normally rest. I tried to match the color but it wasn't close. I would take more time to add secondary colors to the base color if I were to attempt this again. The color match might be closer. The colored goop was taking a long time for the heating unit to cure it. The heat wasn't transferring well to the tip because the tip of the heating unit was barely screwed into the main unit. It worked better after the tip was tightened. I decided to use this kit to cover my efforts after I looked at the unattractive result.
👤I used this to anchor down the tiny flap that had torn in the seat. Since the tear was on a seam, I was worried that it would get worse if not repaired. I didn't have to mix any colors because it was black. I am happy that my repair is completely unnoticeable and has mended the vinyl to prevent further damage. Just repaired a small (1 1/2) scratch. The instructions say I can lightly buff it to make it blend more, but I am leaving it as it is. It will degloss in a few days. I wanted to make sure it didn't spread. I am very pleased with this product.
👤The vinyl repair kit worked well for me. It wasn't perfect. It repaired a dime-sized hole and a two-inch tear in an old car seat. I think the instructions on the permatex website are good. I painted over the repair because I didn't want to spend a lot of time trying to match the original color of the car seat. It wasn't easy to get close. Matching wasn't my priority again. I didn't spend a lot of time on the process. The repair seemed to hold up well after I cured and painted it. Hopefully it will last.
👤It cracked a little a month or so after it was repaired, but it is strong. The way you heat the patch creates a hardened flat-spot. There is no place on my seats that is truly flat, except where this patch was done. I wonder if you could use a heat-gun instead of the flat surface? The spots I was able to repair with very thin amounts of filler have held up well, but the large holes that were repaired without any human contact have cracked open. It's still better than a hole.
It's easy to use and works well with many types of glass. It forms a clear seal. Extreme temperatures, shock, and most shop chemicals are resistant to weather. Flows into hard-to-reach areas. It fills the voids and irregularities. It fills the voids and irregularities.
👤The nosle thing provided wasn't very useful, so I used this to fix my bong.
👤I like to save a buck. I'd rather spend $6 or so on a HairMax We bought a little cash car for someone who was in generally good shape but the day of purchase, we noticed the windshield had a leak due to the rains. The permatex was recommended after research. This stuff is not the same as Silicone. It's not a bad thing for this application because it's very runny. Something that will run into small areas is what you need. I was a little conservative the first time I applied. It didn't work. The second time, I made sure I had enough to fill up everything. I put the rubber gasket back down on top of it so that it would push it down into the opening even more. Waited another 24 hours for the product to cure. Hit it with a high pressure hose. There is no more leak. I would recommend this for smaller leaks. I would think a complete reseal of the windshield is necessary for major things. Don't say that you couldn't use this, just plan on getting a few tubes. If it doesn't work the first time, fill again. The fact that this is a flowing silicone means that it can run through larger openings and not completely seal it.
👤No shop would replace the seal on my car. They wanted to charge me a lot of money for a new window. I wasn't fond of its ability to work, but my wife was right about that. I was wrong. I suggest getting a knife or other thin object to pry up the loose seal as you apply, but haven't had an issue since. It's pretty darn good.
👤I was going to take my car to a body shop and I was ready to pay a lot of money to fix my leaks. The glass body shops refused to touch it because of the rust. They wanted to replace the entire roof. I decided on this after some research. I dealt with the rust first. There was a little sanding around the worst parts. After curing overnight, I used 2 tubes of this stuff around my car. My car is still bone dry after a few weeks. I had to remove the window trim to get the sealant against the glass, but you can't see it with the trim back in place. The trim will help it last a long time. If your leaks are bad I advise you to put some plastic or cardboard down in your interior in case the silicone drips inside. I know it sealed the leaks all the way through, even though it dripped for me.
Don't take their word for it, if you are not 100% satisfied, they will give you a full refund. They are professionals. They're enthusiasts! They have spent years developing their professional automotive detailing products. They use them. Their friends use them. They will give you a full refund if you are not completely satisfied with their products. Send them a message. It takes only minutes to use. Repairs all laminated windshields. Decreases the appearance of chips and cracks. When a crack is looked at 45 degree angle, it is difficult to get a good look at it. The formula is advanced. Good for multiple repairs. The flash point was 93.0 degrees. The flash point was 93.0 degrees.
👤Product worked well. It is important that you set reasonable expectations. You may be disappointed if you think that it's going to look like nothing happened to your car. The goal is to prevent the damage from spreading and to touch up the appearance of the glass. You can't see the impact of the rock from the outside of my car. You can only see a crack if you're looking for it. This product is similar to touch up paint. It looks like repair is clear. If you follow the instructions, have patience, and don't get cockeyed, it works just fine. If you're like me, you've never done this repair before. You'll come out of the whole process satisfied with the results if you're realistic in your approach.
👤My parents' minivan had a crack on it that grew longer and longer until it covered the whole window. I jumped into action when a pebble slammed into my car. I decided on this product because it seemed to have the best balance of price and efficacy. It is at least 1/3 the price of getting it down at an autoshop, and works perfectly. I did 75% of the instructions wrong. This product is 10/10 recommended by me. There is a warning You may have made the same errors as me. The curing strips will be covered in lint if you put them in your pocket. Before you start the treatment process, you need to remove the pressure driver from the chamber. The final steps of the procedure need sunlight to solidify the resin, so do not do it at night. If you leave the curing strip on overnight, you will wake up to a piece of plastic on your car. There is a rectangular area on my windshield that is impervious to cracks.
👤I live in Montana where you get various chips on your car as a way of life. I can get up to 8 or 9 chips on my car in 2 years. I have a rock in my car. This fills them in and makes them so they are not noticed. The first part of the repair should be done in the shade and then move to the sunlight. The kit doesn't have a pushpin to remove some of the crushed glass. It has extra resin to do more than one chip.
👤I used this to repair my van. I have used Permatex before and thought it would be the same. The repair only filled the pit and not the cracks, so the pit is still visible even though I used a heat gun. If you buy the kit from a manufacturer that uses a vacuum to create negative air pressure in the area of the pit and then a plunger to force the resin into the cracks, you will be better off.
👤The kit is easy to use. I'm really impressed with the results and ease of use for the first time. I was not sure how this would go down. The kit supplied with the package makes the process of working with ypresin easy. The instructions are difficult to understand but you can break them down to the following steps. The cure strip is a fresnel lens that maximizes UV light exposure. Remove the curing sheet and use the blade to remove the glass.
It is easy to use. Repairs all laminated windshields. Decreases the appearance of chips and cracks. The formula is advanced. Good for multiple repairs. Good for multiple repairs.
👤I noticed a small bull's eye on my car when I was in Texas. The temperature here is usually around 95 F and the instructions that come with all windshield repair kits don't mention hot weather. I spent a lot of time on the Amazon forums asking people about this, but it was ambiguous. I called a few of the companies, but they weren't very helpful. A handmade video was found on the internet. He said that the product worked for him. I applied it three times to fill in the center of the impact. So far, so good. If it helps, here are my tips. To mark the cracks and impact, use a Sharpie pen on the inside of the windshield. 2. Then tape a clean sheet of white paper over the marks. Both of these steps will improve visibility from the outside of the car.
👤There is a lot of potential for a $10 repair. If you want a 100% result, you should replace your windshield. I got a 50% reduction on the crack, but I still see it. Don't use the applicator when applying the resin. My window was cracked. You can start at the end of the crack and work your way to the starting point. If you rush it, you'll end up with tiny bubbles of air trapped underneath the resin, air that cannot be removed and will make the crack more noticeable. If you're careful, working in the shade, with a cool, dry and clean windshield, you'll probably get a 70 to 80% reduction on the damage, which is great for a $10 product. Don't know about long term durability, just applied it today.
👤At the same time, I am very happy. I used the product and watched a few videos, but I couldn't find the star burst after removing the product's remnants. It was gone. It was larger than a quarter and had three spider legs coming off the impact ding. I had to get windex to wash every speck of dirt off, but I can't find a pin size speck of dust that won't come off. I have to assume that is where the crack was. I was so angry that I would have to buy a new car because I was too lazy to fix the crack. I traded in my Lexus for a new one. I tried this stuff because I didn't want to have the car crack before I could get it fixed because I was going to the city on Saturday. I thought this would be a temp fix until I got to a professional. Like magic. I am a 52 year old woman who uses internet and internet search engines when attempting home repairs so I am not as experienced as you can get. I need a spare to be ready for the next flying object.
👤Had I known, I would have bought this for less than $10 at walmart. The stupid truck was right in my line of sight and it bugged me. I read that it would be better to go through insurance, but the state farm wanted $500 so I decided to give it a try. It did a better job than I expected, and it was easy to apply. I have to look for it before I drive since it was obvious. The main chip is almost completely destroyed, the cracks are smaller. I rushed the job, it said to let it absorb for a few minutes into the crack, but I didn't do that. It did a better job than expected.
Suggested applications include head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings. The brush-top sealant is slow-drying. Resists gasoline, oil and grease. It has been approved for use in aviation and automotive applications. Close-fitting surfaces, seal hoses, and solid gasket are suggested applications. The temperature range is -65F to 400F. The temperature range is -65F to 400F.
👤The item was delivered on time and in good condition, and the product is of great quality. Many thanks to the seller! Cancel Culture is a modern form of ostracism in which Conservative Americans are being thrust out of social or professional circles - either online on social media, in the real world, or both. I will no longer purchase or receive products from Amazon. The company is a disgrace.
👤I used a sealant on a metal pipe. A standard hose. I coated the inside and outside pipe. Within 5 minutes the hose was installed. This connection had a leak next day. The snugging failed to stop the leak. The go pipe and hose were new. I'm lucky I didn't rely on this in and aircraft. I have to remove the hose and find a better one because it is in a tough location. I had high hopes for this. But no longer. I wouldn't buy this again. It failed because many positive reviews had good luck with it. I was wondering if I got a bad container. I use other products that have success. February 15, 2020. I used it on more fitting. It does work now. I wondered why it wasn't doing its job. The above 1/3 inch hose must have been a mistake. All others are leak proof. Happy again!
👤This stuff is sticky and muddy. I used this between my water pump and the included gasket. I was hoping that the sealant would help keep the gasket in place. This idea worked. I got my hands sticky after the gasket pealed away, but what I can say is that the pump is installed and not leaking a drop. I had an issue while brushing the product. The tacky form-a-gasket left the hairs on the brush on the surface as I applied the goop. I had to carefully remove the hairs and inspect the surface after that. This could ruin the seal.
👤I've been using this for over 30 years and it's still relevant. A light coat on any gasket helps keep the seal perfect. Water pump gasket and valve covers are important. Over the years, I have learned that a little on the hoses for a perfect seal is a good trick. It's not necessary on brand new hoses most of the time, but if you reuse a slightly warped hose it will seal perfectly.
👤This is the gasket material you need to rebuild your VW engine. There are other products that work, but there's no reason to pay higher prices for them. You won't go wrong using it, it has a long usage history.
👤I will not be without this item in my work area. It's indispensable when you're working with gasket. It works to seal and to provide enough tack to hold the gasket in place while parts are assembled and tightened together. It has been around a long time and works well.
👤I used this product to seal the threaded fuel fittings on my pick up when I switched to an electric fuel pump. I took the gasket apart to clean it. Product seals well and is easy to work with...just brush it on, wait a few minutes, then assemble...truck started right up with no vacuum or fuel leaks...very pleased!
The glass fills the small bull's eyes and chips to stop it from spreading. Damage can be stopped from spreading. The repair kit makes the glass look new. The easy-to-use glass repair formula does not require special tools. From start to finish, the directions guide project. The glass fills the small bull's eyes and chips to stop it from spreading. Damage can be stopped from spreading.
👤The glue and paint are from the hobby store. It is a cheap piece of leather that can be cut up to fix a hole. The heat tool is useless. You can fill your holes by buying yourself some glue. It takes 24 hours to dry. Re apply it until it is smooth. Add some glue and mix your color from a hobby store or walmart. It will look lighter but it will not last long. Let it dry after brushing it on with a smooth paint brush. The color should be tested. Next, wet a piece of leather with the same grain and lay it on top of the material. Rub the back of the material with an iron. That will make the glue and paint look grain-like. Leave the material there for a while. Pull it off. You saved $10
👤The seat in my car was ripped when I sat down. Listen to your mom when she tells you not to put tools in your back pocket. The ottoman I practiced this repair on had a couple of long rips. Was very happy. The repair on my leather car seat was very good. The results were very good, but it is not perfect. Good luck comes from practicing. The secret repair compound is heat curing. Without substantial heat it will not cure properly. It will start to solidify if it is left in the open air. Don't leave the compound out in the open air after 24 hours because it will become a sticky mess. The compound is heat curing and not paint or color. It had a consistency that was really thick. It is prone to stringing, so be careful not to drag strings of compound over the good part of your repair piece. The compound can be wiped off with a paper towel. If left on for a long time, the compound will stain due to the color, so be careful. If there are voids and pits after the first repair, you can heat cure it and add more compound. The heat disk will hold heat if you use it outside, but it will quickly cool if you use it indoors. If you wait too long to apply the heat disk, the disk will cool and not be hot enough to cure the compound. Next to your repair, have your heat source. The material was not sufficiently heated with the heat disk in pictures and reviews. A hair dryer is not enough. The compound needs a lot of heat to cure. I heated the disk several times before removing the graining paper. The most difficult part is mixing colors. I put a piece of clear box tape over the repair piece. I put my candidates onto the clear tape to see if they matched. The repairs I made had a close match in color. Graining paper has to be pressed into the WET compound before applying heat. If the disk is too hot, it will cause the vinyl to get hot and make your item appear smooth. There are small spots of wet compound on the sample. I mixed my compound on a paper plate. The paper plate gave me a nice surface to mix different colors. I could tint it with other colors if I pulled a small amount aside. To see how good the match was, I could put a bunch of candidates on clear tape and see how good they were. I applied the heat to the disk and then applied the hot disk to the graining paper, moving the disk over the repair area for about a minute. The best result was when I applied the heat several times and let the paper cool before removing it. A good feathered edge can be obtained by using a light moderate pressure. Too much pressure will cause the material to get wet. If you don't nail the heat and pressure correctly, you will get a lump of cured material that is too heavy and too hot. I used a torch to heat the disk. I got the best results with heating the disk for 5 seconds each, then applying the graining fabric, after 10 seconds, because the disk was too hot. I used a clean paper plate, with my thumb under it, and pressed the disk over my thumb to gauge the heat. If the disk is too hot, it will burn your thumb. If the paper plate turns brown, it is too hot to apply the repair. Too hot. You can iron out the graining from your vinyl. The compound will be sticky if it isn't hot enough. If the heat was not suffient, apply it again. The sample is a good place to practice. Is it possible to not do it after consecration? The ends of the torn leather on the ottoman were curled up, and would not lay perfectly flat. There were voids after my first heating session. I re-applied the compound to the voids. I had to fill voids in the cured compound because I couldn't get the leather flat. I applied compound multiple times, but it worked like a charm. I didn't use the glue to fill the voids, the repair built up very well. Sheen: If the repair is too shiny, use a pencil to dull it. If it isn't shiny enough, apply paste wax or clear shoe polish. If you practice on the sample, you will be able to nail the repair. I would recommend this kit to my friends. Good luck.
For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder heads and exhaust head bolts. Heavy-Duty Use or Hi-Temp Applications. It increases reliability by replacing almost any cut gasket and pre-cut gasket. ReliableFormed-In-Place Gaskets that Resist Cracking, Shrinking and Migrating. The temperature range is -65F. To 650F intermittent. The temperature range is -65F. To 650F intermittent.
👤Product does what it is supposed to do. The lid broke. I replaced the plastic white lid to the bottle without wiping the treads down, which is probably my fault. The lid melded to the metal because the treads were covered with Silicone. The plastic lid on the bottle cracked when I took it off. It did what it was supposed to do, but I was not happy because I was lid-less. I had to throw the cap. I found an easy solution to being lidless. I squeeze out an extra blob and use it as a makeshift lid. The exit hole was sealed nicely when it was dried. I seal the blob to the bottle each time. I advise you to wipe down the metal treads before you screw the plastic cap back on.
👤There was a hole in them. I fixed two pairs of shoes that had a large hole and saved $60 because I would have thrown them out. The bike liner was used to bridge the gap. They've held up so far. I have a lot left to spare. It's the best brand to use. You have to follow the recommendations. You might want to wear gloves and a mask. I did not. I was careful with it and the smell is bad. This stuff has a lot of chemicals in it that are not good on the skin or the body, but if you have good air and not using a lot you will be fine. If you get in on your skin, wash it off quickly. I'm going to use it to fix a small hole in an air mattress once I find the leak. This will save me money. I will have enough left to do my fuel injectors, which will save me more than $100 a year. It's worth paying the fee every year to get a day of service. The brand is the best I've used. I always get the high heat version. It doesn't break down in other applications where high heat isn't involved.
👤The stuff works as advertised. This is intended for high heat and should be done easy. Whether you're making gasket or gluing, it sets up quickly. It's hard to remove from skin or fabric. Before you apply, know what you want to do. Be quick. Be careful. If you get more than one use out of a tube, you'll be lucky. This was used for the maintenance of the combustion blower assembly in my 1990s insert pellet stove.
👤What do you think about RTV? It works great and has been around for a long time. It was used to seal my intake manifolds. The red color is great with a chevy engine. It goes on easy, dries well, and seals well. Since I don't think it will stay good in the tube until I need it again, I'll leave it at 5 stars and probably be forced to buy it again.
👤I used to own a few classic cars and this was the stuff to use. I used it to back up the water pump gasket because once it failed it would leak through the steel gasket. I backed up the steel portion of the gasket to make sure it wouldn't fail again. I expect it to not leak far beyond the original gasket. If a thin layer of red squeezes out into the water pump, it will not help the coolant to have a floater in it. Time will tell.
A blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite is resistant to salt and humidity. It's good to use for easy assembly and disassembly of metal parts. It is a good idea to use during assembly to prevent seizing due to weathering or chemicals. The temperature ranged from -80F to 1600F. The temperature ranged from -80F to 1600F.
👤It dislikes unjust seizures. It's perfect for liberty minded people. I've been using it for years to be able to remove a nut or bolt in bad conditions. If you're threading steel into aluminum, it's important to have a spark plug. I use it on my car's brake hubs before mounting the wheels. I had to beat on the wheel to get it out. It's good for slip fit exhausts. You need to be aware that the readings on this product will be incorrect. If you're installing something that requires a specific Torque, make sure you use this product before breaking bolts or studs.
👤The product is good for anti-seize. "For brake lube assembly and anchor pins, engine head bolts, spark plug & oxygen sensor threads, exhaust Manifold studs, EGR fittings and starter & alternator bolts." They make a Copper based one that says for spark plugs in aluminum heads, but should not be used on steel. It seems like the best general purpose option is a nickel based one that is good for regular steel, but costs much more and has a carcinogen warning, so don't use it for makeup. There is a Molly that uses no metals, but it is also expensive. It's hard to find a detailed, not biased comparison of the different types of anti-seize.
👤I've used other brands' copper formula anti seize that doesn't work as well as this one. That's for bolts, plugs, etc. I have manufacturer's product info that says anti seize is for non constant motion metal to metal use. That describes the pins. They are ok for anchor bolts but not for the anti rattle surface. I've done brakes for 32 years and tried anti seize on pins. It dried up like a Tootsie Roll candy when rechecked later.
👤I have used anti-seize for years and am almost at the retirement age. I had to disassemble a Jeep suspension. In the winter, salt ruins vehicles in PA. I was amazed when the impact gun began to back out the bolts without any issues. It was on every bolt but one and it required the use of a gun and heat to get it apart. I use this on the brake hardware and it never fails. The silly brush in the cap is my only gripe. I would pay a few cents more for a better product if it meant I could use it more often. It's difficult to use the last product, I have to cut the bottle in half to get it out. If someone wants a better container, it will be 5 stars all the way, until then you can still count on the product to do what it claims.
👤It's great to prevent seizing in any situation.
👤Every weekend a mechanic needs to have something. You can use the brush on the top to apply the lubricant.
👤I put this on every thing that might rust and seize in place, even the exhaust nuts that can't be undone. The supplied brush is sometimes good and sometimes a pain. If you only use the brush occasionally, it's great for reaching some hard to get places and not worrying about what to use as a applicator because the brush sticks to a long shaft. A good size pot is also recommended.
The temperature range is -65F. To 650F intermittent. The general purpose is clear RTV indoors and outdoors. Glass, metal, plastic, fabric, vinyl, weather stripping, and vinyl tops are some of the things that are secured with seals, bonds, repairs, mends, and secures. It is waterproof, durable, and flexible. The temperature range is -75F to 400F. Not recommended for engine gasket, windshield installation, or electrical connection applications are some of the suggested applications. Not recommended for engine gasket, windshield installation, or electrical connection applications are some of the suggested applications.
👤I use this to mount door and window alarm sensors. It sticks to multiple types of surfaces. It is semi permanent and can be removed if you need to move it. The product is ideal because it leaves all surfaces clean and new. The product has dried in its package and can no longer be used. The fix is easy. The manufacturer chose a low quality plastic for the cap that breaks over time exposing the product to air. I'm going to switch to another brand in order to get better packaging. It is possible to provide a tight seal without having to over-tighten the cap. If the cap is tightened with force, it will break.
👤I have a Ford escape that has been leaking water into the interior for a while now. I brought it to the mechanic and was given a quote. The gasket around the satellite radio can fail and cause water to leak into the cabin of the vehicle, if it fails. I was able to find a video that showed me how to fix it. The videos are 18 minutes long. It takes you to the point that the satellite radio has been resealed and screwed back in to the roof of the car, it then leaves you with instructions to disassemble them. It took less than 45 minutes for me to fix it.
👤It's great to be able to choose the bead size. The bonus to cutting the cap for a small bead size is that half of the product will come out of the opposite end of the tube. It's nothing like using patience to get a small amount into the small cracks, only to find a huge pile of it on the floor at the end of the tube. It is amazing. This is great for small fills and not great for cleaning up the pile from the back end. This product would be perfect if the tube held itself together. If you choose a larger bead size, it won't be a problem. The tube is not able to take much pressure. I had to throw the rest of it away since it came out the back. Stick to the brand.
👤I had a leak in my condensator, which made a mess, and it was sub zero for a while. I bought this. I was surprised that it stopped the leak. I turned off the equipment and allowed it to drain because the Silicone sealant was good, but it is now slower because the device is still operating. I let it drain until it stopped and then applied more. I allowed it to stay for 24 hours. I applied the process to any place that looked suspicious for leak potential after it leaked higher up. It should be sitting for another 24 hours. I then turned on the air conditioning and it had no more leaks. Thank you for the wonderful product, I would use it again, and I would recommend it to others for leaks and such, where a clear sealant is needed. It was easy, but it looked terrible because I am not a pro at fixing things. I think a pro would have a better application. I applied it to the cracks that had formed around my heating and cooling system. It seems like a fairly easy job, and it washed off my hands as well. I think it will be easy to remove with a file or tool designed for this specific purpose except in the areas I applied it to. It should be easy to remove, and maybe a nail filing board would work well.
Suggested applications include valve covers, oil pans, intake manifolds, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings. The defogger tab can be easily bonds to the grid on the rear window. Repairs damaged rear window defogger tabs. A complete kit for a quick repair. It is resistant to extreme weather conditions. Suggested applications are the rear window defogger tabs. Suggested applications are the rear window defogger tabs.
👤I followed the instructions and the hints in the other reviews, I checked with a multimeter right after the tab was re-attached, and I got 0 resistance. There is a The wire didn't work after I reassembled it. I adjusted the resistance to.323. If you have solder iron and electrical solder, this is what did work. 1. The tab and metallic surface of the glass were cleaned. I rubbed alcohol on the glass until it was shiny and then I used a piece of paper on the tab. 2. To melt a thick layer of solder onto the tab part that will touch the glass, use pliers to hold the tab. Let the re solder cool down. 3. Push the tab onto the glass using pliers after the solder is cooled. 4. Push the back of the tab with the hot solder iron. 5. Continue to put pressure on the tab with pliers after removing solder iron from the back of the tab. 6. You can check the resistance with a multimeter after releasing the tab from pliers. It should now show no resistance.
👤You need to understand what you are doing to make it work. People who have given poor reviews did not follow the instructions. The metal where the original tab was mounted is pulled off. You need to lightly sand the finish off a new area to expose the metal. The tab needs to be free of old material. If you hold the tab with a plier and sand the contact area, it will be smooth and clean. I like to clean the window with the same cloth as I clean the tab. Wait two minutes for the cleaning material to dry. Before opening the package, make sure the contact epoxy is around a lot. Apply a small amount of the mixture to the tab. Hold the tab for about 10 to 15 seconds. This is important when you are attaching something to something. Leave the tab to cure for 24 hours. You have to connect the cable after 24 hours.
👤If you want to get frustrated and angry, you should buy it. I knew I needed to follow the directions in the reviews. I cleaned the broken surfaces very thoroughly. I applied the solution to both sides. I held the tab firmly against the glass for a full minute, then let go, and it fell off. I thought. It might take longer to dry. I held it for 3 minutes, after which I let go, and it fell off again. It's cold so this may take a lot longer to dry. I secured the tab with a tape and a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece of a piece The next morning, I took off the tape and clamp. Whoa! Its stuck! Woohoo! I moved the to tab to remove the connector. The tab fell off when I bumped it. I swore and gave up because I didn't have any left after all of the glue was dry. We lived for months without a rear defrost. If the tab stays stuck to the windshield, what does that mean for the shiny tab?
Good for multiple repairs. The upgraded design kit has a stronger repair device and thicker rubber foot to better secure your device to the glass. The device can be more easily placed with an edward. It will give you amazing repair results. The upgraded windshield repair kit contains a special high penetration repair fluid. The shear strength can reach 20 PA. The kit comes with a pressure needle that can push the repair liquid into cracks for maximum strength and skill. It can help you achieve better repair effects. The repair kit is professional quality and does not require other mixing. It can be done in less than 30 minutes and is simple and easy to use. Save the money and time. All types of laminated windshields can be repaired with the upgraded windshield repair kit. Small chips, bulls-eye, spider web, star-shaped, Half-moon crescents, crack, and round damage can be repaired with the car windshield repair kit. Don't work for cellphone screen. All of their YOOHE brand products provide 2 years of quality. Please feel free to contact them if you have any questions after you use their kit. Enjoy yourself, they will keep trying to provide you high quality service. All of their YOOHE brand products provide 2 years of quality. Please feel free to contact them if you have any questions after you use their kit. Enjoy yourself, they will keep trying to provide you high quality service.
👤I used the kit to the letter according to the instructions. It turned out to be pretty bad. Chips are more visible now. Why? The printed instructions for step 4 on Amazon are mangled. The printed instructions do not mention the equal pressure bar. This is what actually causes the crack to open. Maybe drill out this first attempt and try again, not sure what to do at this point. The package had the resin leak all over it before I opened it.
👤I got this kit because my brand new car got a small rock chip from a punk who decided to drive on the shoulder of the freeway, kicked up rocks and debris, and it just kicked up rocks for cars behind you. I was angry because I was stressed that the chip would grow bigger. I decided to get this repair kit because it got better reviews than the other ones and looked like I could use it twice. I saw a video on YouTube that was easy to follow, but I didn't see any on Amazon. The smaller one that came with it was the one I used. The chip was almost gone after the curing strip was put on the car. I would buy it again in the future if I could.
👤I usually have my insurance company fix the chips/cracks in my windshields at no cost in order to prevent the expense of replacing it. I only carry liability insurance on my Jeep, and recently I took a rock to the window. I ordered this kit because I wanted to fix this on my own. I don't think anyone would notice my repair as a chip if they didn't look closely. It looks like I have a bug stuck to the window, which I think is more due to this being my first attempt at using this. I hope I don't have to, but I would think my results would be even better if I did enough of these. If your insurance company doesn't cover the cost of a chip repair, I would recommend that you try this.
👤The stuff stinks. Pros have to fill cracks and chips up to a dozen times, so it was not surprising that we had to use pressure. acetone is a non-residue solvent that is important in cleaning out damage. The clear plastic should be left for a full day. I have experience with these UV resins and they don't seem to cure completely. The plastic sheets can be used again. Start out slow because you can use a lot less resin than you think. Warming the windshield helped thin it out so it didn't get deeper into cracks.
👤Okay, man... The job isn't going to get done if the goop doesn't go in. It wouldn't go in even though I plunged, and it was sprayed all over the place. The crack is still there. Very sad. Maybe I need to take a goop-infusion course. I read the instructions, but still, no goop-penetration, I had to talk to my lawyer and get encouragement that I'm not that bad of a person. If you want to get the hang of it, you should practice on cars in a junk yard. You know? I have blobs of goop on the edges of the crack, so now it looks even worse than it did before I wentopified my car, so I'm going to test it out first. I'm going to have a beer with you.
Windshield repair kit permatex products from Permatex. In this article about windshield repair kit permatex you can see why people choose the product. Rain-x and Rain-x are also good brands to look for when you are finding windshield repair kit permatex.
Permatex, Rain-x and Rain-x are some of the best brands that chosen by people for windshield repair kit permatex. Find the detail in this article.